Murals of Derry

New collection of mural images shows that the writing on the walls is really changing

For decades the churlish backdrop of news reports and feature films on the Troubles, Northern Ireland’s murals are now in a period of transition. Increasingly old images of gunmen and paramilitary regalia are being replaced by social messages and celebrations of community pride in many working class neighbourhoods.

As a new book, Murals of Derry, published by Guildhall Press shows, nowhere is this change more apparent than on the walls and gable ends of houses in Derry city. This glossy, attractive publication - originally published, in 1995, as Seeing Is Believing - brings together colour photographs of murals from both the past and the present found in the city’s Waterside and Cityside areas.

‘The images in Murals of Derry record the evolving viewpoints and aspirations of both communities during a time when the relationships between Ireland and Britain, nationalist and unionist, republican and loyalist, Catholic and Protestant, are being explored and refined,’ explains Guildhall Press manager Paul Hippsley.

‘The range of wall art from across the city captures the ongoing experiences of its people over four decades, whether it is celebrating historical events, protesting against social injustices, or commemorating lost lives.’

Murals have long occupied a unique place in Northern Ireland’s cultural landscape. The earliest examples date from the turn of the 20th century when images of King Billy began to appear in many loyalist areas. After partition, these paintings became an increasingly important way for unionist communities to celebrate the existence of the state.

It was only during the Troubles, however, that murals became overtly political propaganda tools - support for the Hunger Strikes was regularly expressed on the walls of republican areas, while images of the Union Jack and the Queen appeared in loyalist neighbourhoods. In both communities these representations were often accompanied by threatening paramilitary figures and symbols.

Yet even then murals were rarely a simple marker of an area’s political affiliation - they were also used as a vehicle for commenting on important social issues of the time.

Reflecting on his introduction to murals, ‘Declan’, a painter whose work appears in Murals of Derry, says, ‘I was witnessing stuff that was not in the news or in the papers. We lived under a time of heavy censorship. The murals were a way of telling people or highlighting events or issues.’

Derry is home of the conflict’s most enduring and iconic mural – the imploration ‘You Are Now Entering Free Derry’ on a Bogside gable end – and Murals of Derry dedicates an entire chapter to paintings on Free Derry Corner over the past four decades.

Originally painted in 1969, the mural was transformed, in 1994, by artist Colin Darke who painted the wall a socialist inspired red and yellow. Since then Free Derry Corner has sported every conceivable colour – from pink for Gay Pride Week in 2007 to black prior to a Bloody Sunday commemoration in 2006 – and carried messages in support of a wealth of causes, including International Women’s Day and AIDS awareness.

The changing face of Free Derry Corner reflects a general shift in mural painting to embrace more inclusive, socially minded messages. As the photographs collected in Murals of Derry show, over the last ten years the blatantly militaristic and partisan political messages that once dominated the walls of many working class districts have gradually been phased out and replaced by new, community orientated images.

A chapter entitled ‘Community Murals’ showcases examples of this trend in Derry city – including depictions of children playing street football, the patron of Derry, St Columba and – no kidding - a killer whale that apparently surfaced in the Foyle in 1977.

The murals’ themes may have changed, but the impetus for painting them has not. ‘It’s about giving people a vehicle to talk about the issues that affect them and giving the community a sense that these issues are being dealt with at some level. Where once it was plastic bullets that were killing young people in these areas it’s now drugs. Where once it was the cops who thrashed our homes it’s drink,’ ‘Declan’ argues.

He sees plenty of benefits in continuing the tradition of mural painting – ‘it’s one of the ways in which young people can have a positive impact on their area and it gives them a sense of ownership. It’s great to see the faces of people who paint a mural. There is a feeling of achievement.’

The writing on the wall around us has certainly changed - Murals of Derry provides both a vibrant illustration of the extent of these changes and a bright, informative tour guide for anyone interested in the chequered history of the city’s murals.

Peter Geoghegan

Murals of Derry is available now and can be purchased direct from the Guildhall Press website at www.ghpress.com.

The Fremont Troll in Seattle

Seattle, Washington

The Fremont troll has been lurking under the north end of the Aurora bridge since 1990. He was sculpted by four Seattle area artists -- Steve Badanes, Will Martin, Donna Walter and Ross Whitehead -- for the Fremont Arts Council. The head-and-shoulders sculpture is 18-ft. tall.

The shaggy haired troll glares southward with his shiny metal eye -- a hubcap? In his left hand, he crushes an old style Volkswagen beetle (which originally contained a time capsule of Elvis memorabilia; removed after the car was vandalized and the California license plate was stolen). There are plenty of places to pose, and interaction with the troll is encouraged.

The community pays tribute to the troll every October 31st with a mobile "Trollaween" party, starting under the bridge and wandering to other funky art sites and events in Fremont. Of which there are plenty: Fremont is also home to the Largest Lenin statue in the US.

The troll achieved more notoriety in 1998 when the a man shot a bus driver and ran the bus off the Aurora bridge, crashing on top of an apartment building. The building is adjacent to the troll, and was reported to get as much attention -- for a while you could still see evidence of the impact.

Also see: Creatures Guide: Troll

The Fremont Troll

Address:

N 36th St, Seattle, WA

Directions:

Under the Aurora Ave. Bridge -- sometimes called the George Washington Bridge -- at N. 36th Street. Despite the troll's name, it is not under the nearby Fremont bridge.

Hours:

Daylight hours.

from arf!

Lurking under the north end of the Aurora Avenue bridge is one of the most popular art pieces in Seattle. It is the Fremont Troll.

Yes, thats right, a Troll.

People love the troll. Some come to gawk, some to ask the Troll questions, others to hang out and enjoy the interactions that happen with other visitors who come to see the Troll. It is a relaxing place to visit.

Despite the fact that it has a taste for Volkswagen Beetles, the Troll is very well loved even by Volkswagen owners. It keeps a watch over much of Fremont. Few things happen without the Troll finding out.

Once a year the Troll is a host to an artistic party every October 31st called Trollaween. The party starts at the Troll and winds its way down to the heart of the Fremont. Along the way artistic installations, fire puppets and performance art pieces, many which involve the use of fire in the performance, are set up for all to enjoy.

This party is designed to give the residents of Seattle a party that is more community oriented than a typical Halloween celebrations. The event draws thousands of people every year and continues to grow in popularity.

The Troll always loves visitors and welcomes you at any time on any day of the year. The Troll can usually be found on the north end of the Aurora Avenue Bridge (also known as the George Washington on some maps), not the smaller Fremont Bridge just to the west side of the bridge. If arriving by car, drive north on Aurora Avenue and take the first exit at the north end of the bridge. Head off to the right and turn right on the first street you come to. Head south one block to the next intersection and take a right. The Troll will be seen on the right side of the road directly under the bridge. If the Troll is not there, wait patiently and the Troll will return. If you get lost, ask anyone where you can find the Troll. They will be happy to give you directions.

Feel free to leave flowers, but please keep the Troll looking beautiful and respect the Troll. After all, they are known to eat people.

A Tour of Fremont